Chapter 6 - Cassowary Coast

Day 35 – Thursday 2 July - Charters Towers to Crystal Creek 

We departed Charters Towers around 8:30 am and were in Townsville 90 minutes later. We stopped at my favourite Townsville seafood outlet - the purchase was 1.5 kg of fresh king prawns. The reason will be clearer later.

Above: Great seafood outlet in Townsville

Coles provided a restock of soft-drink that could not be completed at Woolworths in Charters Towers. We headed north - both of us yet to have our first coffee for the day. Shirley's All Bran did not last long as I left it on the roof of the car.

Camp was established at Crystal Creek Caravan Park by lunch time. We had an unpowered site with about two acres just for us. The Cassowary Coast starts about Ingham and goes north. Crystal Creek is about 46 km south of Ingham so we are close. It is a magic spot.

A couple of birds played in the tree near us.

Above: The little guy on the left is maybe a 'Varied Triller'. The little guy on the right is maybe a different gender of the same species or maybe a cuckoo.

After lunch we went exploring and found our first beach for the trip. It was 10 km down a (mainly) gravel road that just meandered alongside Crystal Creek - which became quite large by the time it reached the ocean.

Above: Beach near the mouth of Crystal Creek

Below: Crystal Creek about 2 km from the ocean

Above: The road that took us to the ocean.

ON our return we headed 2 km north and found "Frosty Mango" - the home of great mango smoothies. We indulged.

We returned to camp and relaxed. I think I was asleep in my chair when a mate rang for a chat. I lit the fire around 4pm - just for the ambience of having a fire.

Chicken schnitzels became dinner.

Day 36 – Friday 3 July - Crystal Creek Region

A heavy dew and a mild morning was in order as I headed to the creek as the sun rose. I scored a photo of the Bruce Highway bridge (west) and the railway bridge (east).

Above: Bruce highway to the west

Below: Railway bridge to the east

Between both: Crystal Creek

After exercises we took off from Crystal Creek and headed to Little Crystal Creek. The road was closed so that was a non event. So we headed to Big Crystal Creek. On the way we stopped and chatted to a local who sold us two lovely passionfruit (I know because we ate them for dinner) for $1 each and four limes for $1.

We took photos of Big Crystal Creek and Paradise Waterhole (on Big Crystal Creek).

Above: Big Crystal Creek

Below: Paradise Waterhole on Big Crystal Creek

Lower: Someone with an artistic flair had been there

A 'parks officer' assured us that we could actually go to Little Crystal Creek - but only if we joined a queue that departed each hour - on the hour. So we did. We were escorted by a 'pilot' car and the 18 km took 45 minutes. The reason for the restrictions was massive landslides after recent bushfires and rains. Much of the road crosses extremely steep terrain and the road was ruined in a number of places.

We could not stop and take photos of some of the magnificent views.

Above: Historic bridge that we crossed but could not stop for a photo 

[Photo courtesy of Queensland Government]

At the end of the drive we had climbed to 2925 feet from sea level.

At the top we arrived at Paluma Village - a small and quaint village. Due to the road restrictions the village was virtually closed. Nothing was open. A few local weeded their gardens.

The temperature had dropped from 27 degrees at the bottom to 19 degrees at the top.

We did a 2 km rainforest walk then a 2.5 km rainforest walk to Agnes Creek (another creek). There was not much to do apart from rainforest walks.

Above & Below: Rainforest Images

We did the same process down the hill - following a 'pilot' car at 25 to 35 km per hour. It was good on fuel usage - bad on brake pads.

Above: The 'pilot' car passing one of the repaired land-slide locations

Below: Playing follow-the-leader past another land-slide spot

Above: Most of the drive was very scenic

Once back on level ground we drove south to Rollingstone - just to check it out. We saw lots of pineapple farms - but no places were found to buy any. Rollingstone did not impress us.

We arrived back at camp around 3pm not having had any lunch. 

After lighting the fire and relaxing with a drink we dined on freshly shelled prawns with lemon and tartare sauce. Dessert was freshly cut passionfruit on banana with cream or yoghurt.

Fire was first. Prawns for dinner was next.

It was a balmy evening.

Day 37 – Saturday 4 July - Jourama Falls

It was bacon and eggs on the BBQ for breakfast, then a trek into the bush. For the second time in two days our trip was modified because of recent severe rock-falls. Some of the boulders in the rock-fall would be bigger than our caravan.

However the modifications slightly affected our walk - not the drive like yesterday

Above: Evidence of two land-slides

Below: The pretty drive into the National Park

Our first stop was a lovely waterhole that features some turtles. It also had a rock wall resembling a face. As we moved on we spotted a goanna maybe 600 mm in length. It was in no hurry.

Above: Turtle & rock-face waterhole

Below: Turtle, then Lace monitor (Varanus varius)

Eventually we reached the waterfall lookout and it was worth the strenuous walk.

Above: The many levels of Jourama Falls

Below: Waterhole near the bottom of the falls

On the way back to camp we stopped at a road side stall and bought a dozen farm eggs and more passionfruit, then stopped at the "Frosty Mango" and bought mango smoothies (for now) and mango ice-cream (for tonight).

Dinner was a superb two-course meal of BBQd fresh local prawns and a dessert of local pineapple & local mango ice-cream. 

Above: Birthday dinner - Prawns on the BBQ, prawns on the plate, dessert of local pineapple & mango ice-cream

Our stats after 37 days: 4246 km, 115 km/day, diesel $30 per day, accommodation $28 per day, time in car 2.1 hrs/day.

Day 38 – Sunday 5 July - Crystal Creek to Tyto Wetlands (Ingham) - 47 km

It was one of our shortest travelling days - 47 km to Tyto Wetlands just outside Ingham. We paid our $15 then established camp in the RV park.

One of Inghams claims to fame is that it possesses the 'pub' that apparently was the motivation of the famous Slim Dusty song - "The Pub with no Beer".

Immediately we headed into Ingham to check out the Sunday market. Not much there but we scored a good coffee and an excellent carrot cake.

After lunch we chilled out for a while then headed off for a 4.5 km walk around Tyto Wetlands.

Above: One view of Tyto Wetlands

We saw lots of flora but not a lot of birds. No turtles or snakes. I was pretty chuffed to get photos of the following two birds.

Above: Forest Kingfisher

Below: Juvenile Comb-crested Jacana

Then there was..................

Above: A raft of ducks

Below: Masked Lapwing

Bottom: A water lily with resident

Above: A sample of the many flowers that we saw in Tyto Wetlands plus one duck. Images approximately to scale.

While I was contemplating the start of Happy Hour an Australasian Yellow Figbird landed in the tree above me. I had to lay on the ground to get the following photo.

Above: Australasian Yellow Figbird

Day 39 – Monday 6 July - Ingham to Forrest Beach - 47 km

Early to bed and early to rise. You know the story.........

We were ready for the day by soon after 8am. We decided on a 800 metre walk to Coles to (re)buy some cereal that someone (no names here) had left on the roof of the car in Townsville (never to be seen - by us - again).

On the way we scored another couple of birds in Tyto Wetlands, then some art.

Above: A Peaceful Dove and a Pacific Black Duck

Above: Mosaics

Below: More art

We stopped at the (Italian) cemetery as locals had mentioned it to us. Ingham has a strong Italian community and until recently had an annual Italian festival. There was no doubt that the Ingham Italians look after their departed family members.

Above: A small section of the Italian part of the cemetery

Of course, whenever we are in or near Ingham we have to take a photo of sugar-cane being harvested.

Above: Harvested sugar-cane being tipped into a train 

Yesterday was a short day. Today was shorter still, being a mere 29 km from Tyto Wetlands to Forrest Beach - including the detour to the cemetery. Camp was soon established and coffee was consumed. We had time for a walk on the beach before lunch.

Above: Our camp at Forrest Beach

Below: The beach about 75 metres from the caravan

It was a chill-out afternoon. Not much was achieved.

Around mid afternoon a strong breeze blew in from the east and eventually drove us indoors.

*** This chapter is in progress ***

Last updated at 8 pm on Monday 6 July 2026

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Chapter 5 - Into the Tropics

Day 27 – Wednesday 24 June – Lake Maraboon to Theresa Creek Dam - 183 km

We were on the road by 9am and stopped in Emerald a short time later for diesel (as it was cheap), cream (for fire-side dessert tomorrow) and local mandarins (because they are so good).

West was our preferred direction and we stopped at the Anarkie crossroads to have a coffee and take photos of the excellent stained glass structure. There was a coffee van on site so we had a sausage roll for morning tea – because we could.

Above: Two views of the stained glass – one from underneath and one from the side

We drifted north to Sapphire - so called because of the gems that are mined locally. There was not much to see but Shirley somehow directed us to “The Red Barn”. There we met Ron Pearce and all of his art and metal work. 

Ron is a real country character and worth driving a long way to see. His story started when he asked around for a few “picks” (as in the implement to dig dirt and rock) to try a bit of sculpture work. He ended up with over 100 and decided to build a “Pick-et” fence. Note the photo below. He has picks everywhere.

Above: "Pick-et" fence

Ron also collect ‘billy boulders’ to make various animals – see photo below. ‘Billy boulders’ are rocks that are found usually where there are gems. The fossickers look for gems, Ron looks for billy boulders’.

Above: Sir-Loin made from a Billy Boulder

Ron's sister is his OH&S officer. Every time he builds a 'billy boulder' sculpture his sister has to drink two bottles of wine (for the horns).

We spent a long time with Ron and his ‘Dad’ jokes and were sad to depart. He has a painting called his "Pick-asso" painting. 😜

If you are liable to be travelling through/near Sapphire give Ron a ring (0428 384 500)and make sure that he is at home and not out scrounging.

We headed further north through seemingly quite remote country.

Above & Below: Two views of our drive

Maybe two hours later we were pitching camp at Theresa Creek Dam – a lovely camping spot.

Above & Below: Two views of Theresa Dam from our camp site

Around 3:30 I lit the fire and the beef stew started a short time later. Not long after we invited Ian and Mary to join us around our fire. Ian and Mary are Queenslanders and clearly have a hobby of mocking Victorians. That’s Ok, we had campfire stew for dinner – they didn’t.

Day 28 – Thursday 24 June – Theresa Creek Dam

It was chilly overnight, with the diesel heater coming on at 7am. We utilised the great showers with no competition as everyone else seemed to be still in bed.

A few housekeeping jobs were addressed around the caravan, some completed, some a work in progress. A couple of purchases required some older things to be discarded - at last.

A bit of moisture in the bottom cupboard under the sink - nothing to worry about - meant a couple of items need to be aired – and the cupboard cleaned.

Late morning coffee happened.

We had a drive to the other camping area at the lake, anti-clockwise. It was that close we could have walked. Also a nice spot.

Lunch consumed the remaining roast pork from a few days ago.

The we did a walk clockwise along the dam edge until we ran out of path at the bank of the dam. We saw numerous birds, waterlilies and turtles.

Above: Australasian Swamphen

Book reading, blog word creation and sudoku followed. The day was sunny, then overcast and windy, repeat, repeat. Solar was good, bad, repeat…………

I lit the fire around 2.45. The apple & date damper went on at 4:30 pm, as well as spuds and sweet potato into the coals – in foil.

Drinks at 5.05 were around the fire. The Italian sausages were on the fire plate about 5.40 over superb coals with some zucchini.

Above: Waiting for dinner

It was a great sunset to precede an excellent camp-fire dinner – although we ate inside.

Above: Sunset over Theresa Creek Dam

After a two course meal we did not need supper.

 

Day 29 – Friday 26 June - Clermont

Another casual start, then exercises, then a drive into Clermont (pop. 2952). We stopped at the Visitor Centre ala Museum ala Historical Centre. They have an excellent history of the area. We wandered around the many farm and home implements for some time.

Clermont is known for its coffee mining, its severe floods, a tree piano and three pubs that were relocated (on roller and skids) to the new town location in a higher position. Each pub move took about 30 days and was still open for drinks, food and accommodation during the move. Today’s OH&C people would have issues with that.

Above: Two of the Museum exhibits

Below: A photo of a photo of one of the pubs being moved.

Above: One of the three pianos that were wedged in a tree fork during a severe flood 

It was time for a coffee and that worked out be a problem. At 11:45 we found a place that closed at 12:30. However the coffee was worth waiting for. The door was closed before we left. A pie was selected for lunch at the bakery and we ate them on the banks of a lagoon that presented photos of an Australasian Darter and a good-looking goose. Note the superb colour patterns on the Darter.

Above: Australasian Darter showing its colours

Below: A good looking healthy goose

The four murals at the railway station were also captured.

On the way back to camp we smiled at the large farm items sitting at the top of posts in front of farms. We also stopped at the former copper mine.

Above: Copperfield Mine Relics

Below: 'Monuments' at the front gate of two farms

We never saw the sun during the above drive and wondered why we did not wear more clothes.

 

Day 30 – Saturday 27 June – Theresa Creek Dam to Belyando Crossing – 197 km

I was awake before 7am and decided on an early shower. Shirley was woken by a Samoyed and also decided on an early shower.

By 8:30 am we were on the road. Soon after we stopped to top up the diesel at Clermont as there were not many options for the next 400 km – which is Charters Towers.

We set Spotify to play Aussie Errol Gray for the next 180 km. He has some great larrikin-style songs. We had plenty of laughs.

The countryside was mostly heavily grassed with a few hills. The biggest groups of animals belonged to a flock of Brolga, many of whom were dancing. There must have been 200 of them, or more. A few emus looked on bemused at the activity. 

Above: Dancing Brolga

Below: Nearby Emu

Click here to see more of the Brolga dancing.

We stopped for the night at Belyando River Crossing Roadhouse about 200 km south of Charters Towers.

Day 31 – Sunday 28 June - Belyando Crossing to Charters Towers - 203 km

It was a bad night for sleep. Firstly, electricity is generated locally, so we have multiple diesel generators throbbing all night, about 100 metres from the caravan. Secondly, we are camped adjacent to maybe 100 cabins that provide a bed for remote workers. Note that the nearest town is 200 km away. Luckily not many of the cabins were occupied. Even though is was Sunday those workers in residence mostly departed before dawn.

I had a shower at 6.30. Shirley slept on.......

I missed the sunrise thanks to proof reading the blog. However we were on the road by 8:30 and casually headed towards Charters Towers. Again we had perfect driving conditions. The road varied from superb to very ordinary. The roadside was similar to yesterday.

Above: The road 100 km south of Charters Towers

Most of the road today had a 'radio protocol' for road-train drivers to communicate their presence as there were many spots (manly bridges) where two road train could not pass each other. Luckily (maybe being Sunday) we saw very few road-trains.

Our main piece of excitement for the day was to spot a small caravan of camels. They seemed as interested in us as we were of them. All looked very healthy - not that I am a camel expert. 

Above: Queensland Camels

Camp was established in Charters Towers (pop. 8040) in time for lunch.

Above: Our best grass site of the trip to date

Not much happened after that.

Day 32 – Monday 29 June - Charters Towers 

The first day of our second month on the road provided three firsts for the trip. It was the first time our outdoor butane cooker and hot plate had been used, we had bacon & eggs for breakfast and we had breakfast outdoors - in shorts and t-shirts. It was about 20 degrees at 8:45 am as we ate breakfast.

The sun appeared as we ate our last mouthful.

We headed into town and chatted to a very helpful lady at the Visitors Centre, the result of which we headed to "GoldTower" - the site of the biggest mosaic in Australia. Before we departed I took a photo of a huge mural in the middle of town.

Shirley and I are not experts in art but we were blown away by the size and quality of the "GoldTower" mosaic work.

The following image gives you a poor quality distant image of the overall 5 million mosaic tiles.

Click here to see a close up of each section. 

My photos do not do the work justice.

Above: This image includes my hand and gold Rolex so that you can get an idea of the size of each mosaic tile. All 5 million tiles were virtually the same size (albeit some were cut obliquely to fit an angle).
This boy can be seen in the 8th image in the link above in the image titled "Life in the Gold City"

The afternoon was a quiet time during which I finished my latest James Patterson (Alex Cross) book.

Day 33 – Tuesday 30 June - Charters Towers 

The washing was on the line before 8am. Drama then ensued when my phone decided that calls and SMS messages were off the agenda. The SIM card had gone on strike. Sometime later a lady in the phone fix-it shop extracted the SIM and used her Micro broom and mini-blower to remove some Outback dust. Hey presto - all OK. Phew!

We headed 15 km north to Burdekin-Falls Weir to see the large amount of water coming down the Burdekin River. It was amazing how much water was in the river compared to how dry the countryside is.

Above: The Burdekin River, the weir and a lot of water

Below: Downstream

We watched a kite grab a stick inside a tree then fly round and round with the stick. The photos are not good but they provide an idea of the bird v. stick.

Above: Kite with stick

Lunch was hot dogs.

After lunch we headed to the miners memorial where we learned that Charters Towers has the worst mining record (per miner) of any gold mining area in Australia. Many many lives have been lost. There was no explanation why.

Some of the mines were adapted for munitions storage by the RAAF during WW2. There were many signs warning of possible unexploded ordinance and uncapped mines. We kept to established tracks.

For dinner we had our second meal of Murray Cod that we bought in Griffith some time ago. It was cooked on the BBQ with some potato wedges and served with salad. Excellent.

Day 34 – Wednesday 30 June - Charters Towers 

The day alternated cloudy and sunny all day. A few jobs were completed around the caravan. We did $130 worth of grocery shopping. We relaxed. We got ready for a departure north tomorrow,via Townsville.

We had a communal pizza around the park camp-fire for dinner and met a couple from Canberra - one of the few big Aussie cities colder than Melbourne in winter.

The pizzas were pretty good. 

*** This chapter is now complete ***

Last updated at 8 pm on Wednesday 1 July 2026

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